Simply attach any metal knife to the magnetic knife sharpener and use the roller sharpener to sharpen any of your household or kitchen knives by sliding it along the edge.

The industrial diamonds we use are the ideal material for bringing knife blades of any hardness back to an optimum basic sharpness. With the coarse diamond grinding disc, you can sharpen your knives in the first step and achieve a very good grinding result. After coarse sharpening with the diamond disc, the stainless steel honing wheel is used to fine sharpen the blade and smooth out the last burr on the cutting edge. Only a few movements forwards and backwards are required to achieve the desired result.

Our roller sharpener is suitable for most knives, including but not limited to kitchen knives, cleavers, most plain edge hunting knives and plain edge folding knives. Blades that are not suitable for sharpening with the roller sharpener are those of bread knives and scissors.

Knives forged from Damascus steel are particularly hard, which often leads to the question of how best to resharpen such hard blades. Our roller sharpener has a highly efficient diamond disc. This material is harder than Damascus steel, so that even such fine knives can be sharpened. In addition, the constant angle of 15 or 20 degrees ensures that only the cutting edge is resharpened, and the expensive blade is not damaged.

Ceramic is not magnetic and therefore knives with ceramic blades cannot be attached to the magnetic holder. Our roller sharpener is therefore not suitable for ceramic knives.

Yes, this is possible. As Japanese knives are often only sharpened on one side, you only want to resharpen one side of such blades. The magnetic holder of the roller grinder allows both 15 degree and 20 degree sharpening angles. The blade can be sharpened alternately from both sides and therefore only on one side.

For larger knives, e.g. a large Chinese chef's knife, the roller grinder can be underlaid with a cutting board so that the grinder is raised to the height of the cutting edge.

The first step is to sharpen a new constant angle of 15 or 20 degrees for the first time. Most knives have a specific angle from the factory, which is between 15 and 20 degrees, but it is not always consistent. The first sharpening therefore takes between 2 and 6 minutes. For special blades with high hardness, such as Damascus, it can take up to 10 minutes. From the second use, after the knife has become somewhat blunt again, resharpening only takes a few strokes back and forth, as the sharpening angle has already been determined by the first resharpening.

The roller grinder is not suitable for serrated grinding. The serrated heads of the bread knives are ground off, and the surface of the diamond grinding disc can be damaged.

A 20-degree angle is a more robust angle than the steep 15-degree cutting angle, which may offer more precision. Before you start modifying your knives, consider the following points: Western knives are usually made from a softer grade of steel that can better withstand the high impact stress of cutting in the West, making them too soft to hold a narrower 15-degree angle for long. So if you change the angle from 20 degrees to 15 degrees, they will need to be sharpened more often. (Japanese knives are made from a harder, more brittle steel that will hold a narrower edge longer). You will also inevitably remove a considerable amount of metal from your knife over time.